Britain’s oldest Indian restaurant, Veeraswamy, a cultural and culinary landmark in London that once hosted Mahatma Gandhi, Jawaharlal Nehru, and Indira Gandhi, is facing closure after nearly a century of service. The Crown Estate, which owns the building, plans to convert its Regent Street premises into office space — a decision that has sparked outrage across the UK’s culinary community.
Founded in 1926 at Victory House on Regent Street, Veeraswamy has been a cornerstone of Indian fine dining in Britain. The restaurant, currently operated by MW Eat, which also owns Chutney Mary and Amaya, has served generations of iconic guests — from Charlie Chaplin and Princess Anne to King Abdullah of Jordan. However, MW Eat was informed that its lease would not be renewed as the Crown Estate intends to expand the ground-floor reception area for the building’s upper-floor offices.
The Crown Estate, a property portfolio held by the British monarch but managed independently on behalf of the nation, has justified the move as part of a “comprehensive refurbishment” to modernise the building. It said it has offered to assist Veeraswamy in finding an alternate site within its West End portfolio, along with financial compensation.
The announcement has drawn criticism from top British chefs, who published an open letter in The Times condemning the plan as “sacrilege.” The signatories — including Raymond Blanc, Michel Roux Jr, Michael Caines, Richard Corrigan, Cyrus Todiwala, Anthony Demetre, Tom Aikens, Phil Howard, and Ben Murphy — called for “meaningful dialogue” with the Crown to preserve Veeraswamy in its “rightful home.”
“Heritage cannot be relocated, nor can history be replaced,” the chefs wrote. “Keeping Veeraswamy alive is an act of responsibility by the Crown worthy of London’s reputation as one of the world’s great dining and tourist cities.” They warned that closing the 99-year-old establishment would represent a “profound loss” for London’s restaurant culture and its tourism economy.
The restaurant’s lease expires in June 2026, and a court hearing expected in the spring or early summer will decide whether it can extend its tenancy for another 14 years under the UK’s protected tenancy laws.
Owner Ranjit Mathrani, 81, said he was blindsided by the decision, noting that just a year earlier, the Crown Estate had invited him to expand operations within the same building. “This restaurant is not just a business; it’s a piece of living history,” Mathrani told the Daily Mail.
Veeraswamy’s story dates back to its founder, Edward Palmer, the great-grandson of General William Palmer — private secretary to Warren Hastings, India’s first governor-general — and Faiz-un-Nisa Begum, a Mughal princess. Palmer envisioned the restaurant as a bridge between India and Britain, introducing authentic Indian flavours to London’s elite.
In 1934, the restaurant was bought by MP Sir William Steward, who reportedly travelled over 200,000 miles across India to collect recipes, artefacts, and skilled chefs, transforming Veeraswamy into the definitive Indian dining experience of its era.
Today, as the restaurant faces possible closure, its defenders argue that Veeraswamy is more than a business — it is an institution, reflecting a century of India-UK cultural exchange. Whether the Crown Estate will heed calls to preserve it in its historic home remains to be seen.
