Fresh from receiving an invitation to join the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, acclaimed costume designer Eka Lakhani spoke to India Today about the unexpected honour, her journey in cinema, and the growing global recognition of Indian craftsmanship.
Lakhani said she is still coming to terms with the announcement and only gradually realised the significance of being invited to join the Academy.
"I got a message saying, 'Welcome to the Academy' from Guneet Monga, and honestly, I had no idea what that meant. I Googled it and thought, 'Oh okay, that's cool.' It really didn't hit me at that time. Only after more people started messaging me did I realise what it meant," she said with a laugh.
She admitted that she, like many others, remains unsure about how the Academy selects artists and technicians for membership.
"I actually started asking people because I was curious myself. I have no idea how this happens. I never applied, so I don't know what the process is or how the connection happened. I am sure it has something to do with members who are already a part of the Academy. I believe that maybe my body of work ticked some boxes, which eventually got me a seat at the table. I am extremely grateful and extremely excited."
Inspired by Bhanu Athaiya's legacy
For Lakhani, the invitation carries special emotional significance because it follows in the footsteps of Bhanu Athaiya, the pioneering costume designer who became the first Indian to win an Academy Award for Gandhi.
"I never dreamt that one day the Academy would recognise me, but I have always looked up to Bhanu Athaiya's journey. She has always been such a big inspiration for me. I am just so glad that I now get to follow that path for India in my own way," she said.
She added that it felt surreal to see her name alongside distinguished Indian film personalities such as Vishal Bhardwaj, Deepa Bhatia, Farah Khan and Shikhar Prasad.
A journey shaped by cinema
Looking back on her career, Lakhani said her focus had always been on storytelling through cinema rather than chasing awards or recognition.
She recalled how an unexpected opportunity to intern on Mani Ratnam's Raavan shortly after graduating from fashion school changed the course of her career.
"I had completed five years of studying fashion and thought I would join a magazine or work in high fashion. Then I got a call from Mani Ratnam sir's office saying their costume designer was looking for interns for Raavan. I spoke to my father, and he immediately said, 'Forget the high-fashion job. Go and start from scratch. Be an intern. Be on the ground and see how films work.' I am so glad I followed that advice because everything I learnt from Sabyasachi Mukherjee and everything I learnt from Mani sir led me to where I am today," she said.
Lakhani also credited her parents, particularly her father, for encouraging her to pursue a creative career at a time when she had planned to study science.
"I actually wanted to study science and did that for the first two years. But my father always felt I was more inclined towards art. He encouraged me to study fashion or fine arts because he believed I would do better there. At that time, I was taken aback. I wondered if he thought I wasn't good enough academically. Two years later, I went back to him and said, 'I think you were right.' Since then, I have had constant support from my family in everything I have done. They even took me out for dinner to celebrate this feat."
